I have decided to embrace my Ukrainian heritage. It has contributed to the shape of my butt, my tendency to want to stuff people with totally uneccessary food and, I'm sure, will someday result in an impressive moustache akin to the one sported by my great aunt Mary.
Truthfully, some of my clearest and fondest memories of childhood are of my two grandma's kitchens: one Ukrainian and the other German Mennonite. As a child it seemed to me that (either) grandma's kitchen was always a sea of bums in aprons and dresses, bending over the counter, mashing potatoes or stirring gravy. I can recall family meals where all the women spent hours in the ktichen, my mother and grandma and aunties all busy hovering and tasting and turning and stirring and the air thick with good smells and steam. When I was old enough to help meaningfully, I too joined the sea of apronned fronts and hovering bums.
I am extremly fortunate that a large part of my Ukrainian (and German Mennonite) heritage revolved around food. When I am over tired of the ubiquitous, and sometimes contrived, dishes of cuisine of the moment: Spanish, Moroccan, Modern Australian, French.... I have something comforting and peasant-simple to fall back on. Something decidedly un-trendy and satisfying.
I would have a hard time choosing my favourite Ukrainian treats. There are so many:
Holubtsi - rolls of cabbage filled with rice and meat and baked in a tomato sauce or miniature Holubtsi of sour cabbage leaf stuffed with rice and onion and brushed with butter;
Varenyky - (or pyrohy, depending on the part of the Ukraine you come from. Or, If you are Canadian, "perogies")- little dough dumplings filled with garlic mashed potatoes and cheese and swimming in sour cream or, my absolute favourite, sewwt operogies filled with blueberries or plums and swimming in sweet cream;
Pampushky - little triangular doughnuts filled with sweetened crushed poppy seeds;
Nalysnyky - delicate little crepes filled with a hot cottage cheese, cream and dill filling.
In recent years my love for traditional Holubtsi rolls of fresh cabbage leaves aound meat and rice filling with tomato sauce, and the baby, no bigger than your thumb, sour cabbage rolls has merged into one. If you cannot find sour cabbage where you are, which is likely as I have never found it outside of Alberta and Saskatchewan (due to the large Ukrainian populations there), you may have to make your own. It is basically a whole head of cabbage that has been "sauerkrauted". You might find it at stores in neighbourhoods that are home to lots of Ukrainian or Croatian families. If you can't find it, you could try making your own, although, like puff pastry, I always use bought so I won't be much help to you there.
Sour Cabbage Rolls (Holubtsi)
This recipe makes a LOT - but they freeze well, so you may want to do a smaller batch or separate this batch into 3 or 4 and freeze them for extra meals.
Rolls:
- 1 whole head SOUR cabbage (about 3 pounds)
- 2 pounds ground beef
- 3/4 cup finely chopped onion
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 cup raw rice, cooked and cooled
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
Sauce:
- 1 800ml can crushed or pureed tomatoes
- 1/3 cup strongish beef broth
- 1 can condensed tomato soup, undiluted
- 1/2 teaspoon sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon onion powder
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
When handling a whole head of sour cabbage, the souring solution can rritate your skin, so wear food grade latex or rubber gloves.
Remove cabbage from wrapping (in the sink, it will be very wet) and carefully peel each leaf away from the head. Cut the thick center stem from each leaf, separating the larger leaves into two pieces. The smaller leaves can be left whole but, depending on the thickness of the centre rib, you may want to pare it down.
In a large steel bowl combine meat, rice, egg, , chopped onion, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Dampen your hands, take a small portion (3 Tbsp) of meat mixture and roll it in your damp hands to make an oblong/oval shape. place at one edge of a cabbage leaf piece and roll the leaf around it, tucking the open ends in toward the center.
Place each roll seam side down in a large roasting pan or lasagne pan. (If you are left with extra leaves, you can line the bottom of the pan with them and put the rolls on top, or stuff them down the sides of the pan.)
Mix sauce ingredients and pour over cabbage rolls. The sauce should almost come up to the tops of the rolls withiout totally covering them. If there is not enough sauce to reach this level, add water until the appropriate level is reached.
Bake, loosely covered with foil, in a 350 farenheit oven for 1 to 1.5 hours, depending on the size of the dish. If you're unsure as to the appropriate length of time, my mother's rule is to assume they are done when the sauce has been bubbling well for 30 minutes. If the sauce looks like it's getting so low it might burn, add a little more water, just enough to avoid burning. When they come out, the sauce volume should be drastically reduced.
Serve with a little of the sauce in each dish.
As a variation, I have been known to add sauteed musrooms to the meat mixture.
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