So you've been wondering where I have been?
Montreal.
I spent the last week or so wandering around the streets of the Plateau in Montreal shopping and eating and drinking. And eating. And I loved it. This mini vacation was all about the food - because honestly, any vacation I take is all about the food.
We ate in several great little (mostly ethnic) restaurants amd the variety was positively stunning. We had Tibetan food at a little hole in the wall near our B&B, the most amazing organic spelt croissants (and the stellar not-so-wholesome white flour ones too) from a fantastic bakery on Laurier Street, unbelieveable Basque tapas meal. But I think my favourite meal was Le Dizzy.
We had our Sunday night supper at a local Iranian restaurant, Byblos, just down the street from our friend's flat.
We ordered Le Dizzy, which is Byblos' version of the traditional Persian dish Aab-goosht-e Lappeh. It's a divine meal, but also a form of high entertainment as the propritor goes to great lengths to show you how to eat le Dizzy.
You are given a beautiful, but empty, clay soup bowl and a gorgeous clay jug filled with a fragrant, steaming lamb and bean stew. You are also presented with a bowl of soft pitas and a bowl of toasted pitas, a plate of mint leaves, onion and baby greens as well as a large wooden pestle (or is it a mortar? - it's the handle/musher thingie, not the bowl thingie).
You use your soup spoon to hold back the meat in the clay jug and pour the gorgeous thick broth into your bowl. You crumble over some of the toasted pitas and fight back the urge to bring the whole bowl up to your lips to drink it in. You should use a spoon instead. It lasts longer. And no one stares.
Whaen you are finished your soup, you use the pestle (mortar?) to pound the meat and vegetables into a smooth paste. You eat flavourful rich paste on small pieces of soft pita, topped with mint leaves, onion and greens. Divine!
The proprietor kept us amused all night with his assessment of our technique and his genuine concern over whether we enjoyed it or not. Our enthusiasm must have been well received as we were rewarded with several desserts on the house! He brought us a gorgeous warm chocolate tart and some homemade ice creams: blueberry and apricot and a warm rice pudding type dish made from ground buckwheat. We topped it all off with some traditional Persian tea.
The best part, aside from the food and the charming service, was that the staff were totally content to let us just sit and enjoy each other's company for as long as we wanted after we were finished - until bedtime actually - without complaint. It was definitely one of the best evenings out I have had in a very long time. I can't wait to go back next time we're in Montreal.
In the meantime, I've found several recipes for Aab-goosht on the internet, and am looking forward to making this delightful meal at home.
When you're next in Montreal, you positively must try Byblos on a Sunday night (that's the night they serve Le Dizzy although it is runored that you can get it other nights even tho9ugh it's not on the menu).
Yup, Byblos is great for the Sunday-night dizzy. Their Sunday brunches are out of this world as well.
If you're still in the area, check out "Le Fromentier" for their breads, and "Olives Olive" for, well, olive oil. And not to mention the chocolate shop around the corner...
Posted by: Michel | October 04, 2006 at 08:01 AM
sigh - I love, love Montreal.
Posted by: Lins | October 04, 2006 at 08:23 AM
The Plateau is one of my favorite Montreal neighborhoods -- apart from the restaurants, there is a fabulous cookware store on Laurier. Next time, Le Dizzy, for sure!
Posted by: Lydia | October 07, 2006 at 04:12 AM
Still kinda wondering where you are...
I love the name Le Dizzy. Too fab.
Come back soon!
xoxox
Rachael
Posted by: Rachael | October 12, 2006 at 01:54 PM