Missing Melbourne

When we left Melbourne at the end of October things were just beginning to heat up over there and cool down over here. Sadly, springtime in Melbourne is a distant memory now. It doesn't help that winter descended on Edmonton overnight with a great big whumpf of snow and a 17 degree drop in temperature. Right now in Melbourne it's a mere 13c. Mind you, it's early morning there. Sigh.

Aside from the weather, there's always something for me to miss about Melbourne. More often than not, it's food-related. Good coffee. A favourite restaurant (or two).

Mainly what I miss is really, really good food just about anywhere you go. Sadly, in Edmonton mediocrity is all the rage and truly good meals are few and far between.  I think I'd kind of forgotten that after 2 years away from Melbourne.

For a meal to be truly great, it doesn't have to be avant garde science geek food "inspired" by El Bulli or the French Laundry (which is now so ubiquitous as to be boring - if I never hear another person bill their food as "Inspired" by something it will be too soon!).

Really good food does have to fulfil its potential. If it's a scone, it must be a great scone. A scone that makes me go "wow!".

And honestly most restaurants in Edmonton aren't even half way there. Some are good. Most are mediocre. A few are downright shocking. People here seem to rave about restaurants that hover somewhere around good to mediocre. A sad testament to what is available on tables across the city.

For me, the perfect illustration of the disparity that exists between Melbourne and Edmonton is summed up in one word: Risotto. I have never had a good risotto in Edmonton. Even in a pricey restaurant. Most risottos here are mushy or soupy. And flavourless and uninteresting. I ate several amazing risottos in Melbourne. Not in fancy places for outrageous prices, but in run of the mill local pubs for around $14. My love for good risotto re-ignited, I couldn't wait to try to reproduce my favourite as soon as we got back.

I know risottos are very "Naked Chef", but there's something so cozy yet elegant about them that I can't help but still love them even if they are about 5 years out of style. Besides, there must be a skill to them. Seems a lot of chefs out here have trouble with them.

I promise this one won't disappoint. I had something similar at the Fringe cafe at the Acland Street Junction in St. Kilda.

Pumpkin, Spinach & Goat Cheese Risotto

Serves 6

• 1 medium acorn squash or small, sweet pumpkin (plus olive oil to coat)
• 2 chopped medium onions
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tablespoon olive oil
• 1.5 litres chicken stock
• 2 cups arborio or carnaroli rice
• ½ cup dry white wine
• butter
• ¼ cup grated Parmesan
• 4 cups fresh spinach leaves
• 300 grams goats cheese
• Sea salt
• Fresh pepper

Cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, peel and cut into 2cm cubes. Toss cubes in olive oil and roast on a baking tray at 350F for 35 minutes.

10 minutes before the squash is finished baking, sauté the onion & garlic in a large saucepan over medium heat for a 3-4 minutes until they begin softening. Add the rice and cook, stirring for several minutes until the rice is glossy and absorbs the oil.

Stir through the wine until it is all absorbed into the rice and the alcohol has cooked off.
After the wine is absorbed, start adding the stock a cupful at a time, stirring constantly until the rice has absorbed each cupful before adding the next.

This whole process should take between 15 to 30 minutes to absorb all the stock. Keep tasting the rice to make sure it is cooked and soft but with a bit of bite.

With the last cupful of stock add the pumpkin cubes, spinach, butter and Parmesan.
season with salt and pepper. Stir gently to allow the remaining stock to be absorbed and to break up the pumpkin a little bit.

When the risotto is done, it should be slightly saucy, but should still mound nicely, not run.

Ladle piles of the risotto into bowls and top with crumbled goats cheese.

Comments

[Kevin]

You've made me feel better about myself for seldom if ever eating out in Edmonton. If I'm going to eat out, it's for a cheap bite in Chinatown. Barring that, I'm pretty much not interested.

[Linda]

wow, I never considered risottos to be anything but a classic... I had no idea that there was a risotto phase! I love risotto and particularily enjoy making it ~ something so therapeutic about all that stirring...

[Nicole]

Mmmm....this sounds so tasty. I think it may just become dinner tonight!

[Rachael]

Welcome back doll!

[jano]

Mmmmm - we're spending a week in Melbourne after Christmas (when it will be unconscionably hot, no doubt) but am so looking forward to it.

I like the roasted pumpkin idea - I usually boil mine and throw it in closer to the end and use some of the cooking water when I run out of stock - I like my pumpkin risotto to be a little orange with the mushy-around-the-edges boiled pumpkin. But I can see the attractions of the roasted pumpkin, too.

[Cathie]

I'm from Edmonton (well, Thorsby, actually) and I love risotto! But I make it myself here in Luxembourg, where I currently live. I tried this recipe with some leftover Halloween pumpkin I had and it was delicious!

Yes, Edmonton may lack good risotto, but have you ever had better pyrohy or halubchi? Or borscht? I have lived in Ontario, Germany and now Luxembourg and would rather die than part with my St. Basil's Ukrainian Catholic Women's League Culinary Treasures (Volume II, 1980) recipe book. And don't even get me started about Nanaimo bars!!! I've converted many Luxembourgers and other expats to their charms.

Love your baby! He's a real sweetie.

[Tara Z]

Has anyone else tried risotto at il Portico? I thought it was pretty good last time I had it (although it has been a while...)

[Elly]

Reading this makes me miss Melbourne all over again - for me it's the abundance of Asian veggies and good quality seafood. I've given up ordering fish of any kind when I eat out in Edmonton (except at Mikado's) because the poor quality is just depressing. Going home in february for a few weeks and going to stuff myself silly on prawns, oysters, etc.
Have only once been able to order risotto at an Edmonton restaurant! Going to give this recipe a go.

[Michelle]

Hi, I love your blog - I am from Edmonton but am currently living in Melbourne (5 yrs now) and will be moving back within a year and a half if all goes to plan with my Aussie hubby.
As much as I am very much in love with my hometown, I do understand what you mean - especially after living in Melbourne for a while, I can say that I've been enlightened when it comes to food. Although there is some lovely places to eat in Edmonton, they're not particularly obvious so it takes some patience. Luckily for me, my husband makes a beautiful risotto.
Have you ever thought of opening a restaurant...?

[Veronica Mitchell]

Thank you for this recipe. We are snowed in with a blizzard and I made this tonight, and it was a perfect cold winter night's food. My stomach is still smiling.